Marzipan: A Persian delicacy and remedy

The festive season in the final months of the year is on the horizon, with Halloween, St. Nicholas' Day, and the weeks of Advent leading up to Christmas. As well as being a time for reflection, these days are, above all, a feast for the palate – they are famous for that, and notorious among those who are conscious of their weight. Anyone who hasn't yet managed to lose weight around their hips might as well give up for now. After all, the sheer abundance of sweet treats on offer in shops and markets cannot be ignored in the long term.

The most delicious – and arguably the most dangerous (for one's figure) – thing that confectionery manufacturers have ever invented is marzipan. Who isn't familiar with the little works of art made from this malleable material that look and smell so tempting, especially in winter? Nothing is beyond recreating with marzipan, from the obligatory lucky pigs to every type of fruit and vegetable imaginable. All kinds of animals and other shapes are moulded from marzipan, and, in keeping with old traditions, entire cakes and platters are made, too.

Marzipan originally comes from the Orient, where it was a popular harem treat. Even back then, the recipes were highly varied and much prized. Essentially, marzipan consists of marzipan paste, i.e. almonds and sugar, as well as various other ingredients such as rose water. However, manufacturers are reluctant to reveal their exact recipes.

In the Middle Ages, marzipan was traded as a luxury food and was therefore expensive. Interestingly, pharmacies sold goods such as marzipan and other confectionery, probably because many of the items that we now regard as mere treats were considered medicinal. Marzipan was believed to have beneficial effects on the stomach and intestines, as well as on sexual potency. It was not until the eighteenth century that it lost this reputation and was adopted by confectioners and pastry chefs.

There are various regulations concerning its composition. Not all marzipan is the same. The quality depends on the proportion of marzipan paste to sugar. Ideally, the raw marzipan content should be high and the sugar content low. Standard marzipan must contain at least 50 per cent raw marzipan, meaning the sugar content is also 50 per cent. For the Lübecker Marzipan protected brand, however, the raw marzipan content must be at least 70 per cent, with added sugar making up the rest. Niederegger's finest marzipan contains 100 per cent raw marzipan.

There are also various other types, such as persipan. This is made from peach stones and is primarily used in baking. The Middle East is home to many sweets similar to marzipan, made from nuts or grains. Halva, which is made from sesame seeds, is one example, and it has a temptingly sweet and aromatic flavour. Another close relative is the popular nougat. Its flavour comes from the hazelnuts that make up its base.

Nuts and almonds are very valuable and delicate foods, of course, but they are also highly nutritious. However, the amount of sugar required to make marzipan and similar mixtures means that these delicacies are the enemy of any diet. But who takes such things seriously when Advent and Christmas are fast approaching? Perhaps a compromise is in order: enjoy these delicacies in smaller quantities, but savour them fully. What matters is the moment, and the sheer fascination of the Orient. After all, the truly grey and cold days will come soon enough. After Christmas.

© 'Marzipan: A Persian delicacy and remedy. Perhaps the most delicious sweet ever invented by confectioners', written by Winfried Brumma (translated by Izabel Comati), 09/2026. The illustration by Alice Wiegand, showing a marzipan pig, is licensed under Creative Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0).